Article #1
From the desk of Michael John
Here are some helpful recommendations to prevent
water from damaging your home.
Humidity: According to the American Society of Heating, Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) the most acceptable range of indoor relative humidity for health and comfort reason fall between 30%-50%.
The repair: A dehumidifier should be used during the humid seasons. Not necessary during the dry winter months or when you use central air conditioning in the basement. An air conditioner works the same as a dehumidifier to remove the moisture. A crawlspace would benefit from dehumidification too.
Crawlspaces: Did you know that nearly half of the air you breathe on the first floor of your home comes from the crawl space? Which may include moisture, mold spores, odor and even radon gases? Also, insects, critters, rot and decay love damp environments.
The repair: A vapor barrier works well over a dirt floor (DIY - 6 mil plastic). We like to clean all surfaces and then use an ultra low volume fogger to apply a product called Anabec cleaner (See detailed information at anabec.com). This product works great for improving indoor air quality especially for hard to clean or keep clean crawlspaces.
Sump pump failures: When a sump pump gets too old or just stops working the ground water all around your home rises and comes in through the drain tiles at the base of the basement walls. At first it will come in here and there and before long your entire basement can take on water.
The repair: Have your sump pump inspected yearly before the spring thaw, replace when recommended. Replace old or inferior sump pumps. A high end 1/3 HP cast iron Zoeller sump pump with a mechanical float switch is my master plumber’s favorite. Have the inspector make sure the discharge line is guarded from freezing. Also, inquire about an alarm that will let you know if the sump pump fails. Consider a back-up sump pump system. Google search for “Triple Safe Sump Pump System”. I like the fact that it has a specifically designed battery that is engineered to withstand long periods of non-use compared to standard boat or car batteries. I see a lot of back-up systems fail when they are needed because the battery is not maintained. You can also check into water powered back-up systems. Also make sure your sump pumps electrical cord is attached so it can not obstruct the float mechanism from turning on the sump pump. Keep a lid on the pit so nothing or no one can fall into the sump pump pit. Do not use the designated outlet for anything else but the sump pump.
Frozen pipes: Some winters are rough. Even when past winters have not affected your plumbing. Weak spots can be exposed one day due to colder temperatures.
The repair: Leaving town? I would leave your thermostat close to what the plumbing normally is accustom to when you are at home. If a frozen pipe burst while you’re away the water would flow until someone stopped by and found the leak. Turn off the water for the entire house unless you have a water powered back-up sump pump system that is not feed from before the main shut off valve. And if your thermostat has a 9 volt battery-replace it! So if your power shuts down and then the power is restored the memory settings remain the same when the furnace turns back on. Have a designated person check your home on a regular basis while you’re away and make sure they know to check the basement as well. Also, even if you have not had any problems in the past, turn off the outdoor water spicket supply valve and leave the outside valve open during the winter.
Dishwashers: Great to have but sometimes they have a mind of their own.
The repair: Make sure you close the door all the way. I know of an occurrence where the power went off while the homeowners where on vacation and when the power came back on so did the dishwasher but the door was ajar and water sprayed out onto the hardwood flooring, soaked under the cabinet, into the drywall and ran down to the finished basement. I also do not recommend running the dishwasher while you are gone for the day. Noticing and stopping unwanted water flow as quickly as possible is relative to the amount of water damage that may occur. As much as 8-10 gallons per minute of water can flow from a broken water line.
Bonus repair tip: Purchase several $10.00 water alarm sensors from your local hardware store and place wherever a water leak can occur. I have had many clients say they ignored the sound of water thinking it was raining outside until they noticed it was a sunny day.
Finished or finishing a basement: Many people have decided to down size including their homes in today’s economy. So we need to take advantage of the space we have and since we are already paying for the large area in the basement we may as well make it into a comfortable living space.
The repair: Start outside – are your downspouts extended far enough away from the house? Are the gutters regularly cleaned? Is the soil, patios and driveways graded away from your home? Especially the grade under the wood deck! This area is shaded and does not benefit from the suns drying power after a big rain. Is the window well properly covered?
Now for the inside – If you have a brand new home I suggest waiting to see if any water problems occur before finishing the basement. Maybe a couple of years wait time if possible. I like to purchase older homes because usually all of the kinks have been worked out by now. Although If you do plan to purchase an older home it's wise to get a thorough inspection done before making the big decision to buy, including looking for mold, water damage and evidence of a previous sewer back-up. Also, homes built in 1980 or before may contain asbestos and 1978 or before may contain lead.
Observations I've made over the past 35 years: Even though we found lead and asbestos to be hazardous if handled improperly there was an unusual benefit to these hazardous materials. They created a hostile environment for mold growth. So when we got rid of the lead and asbestos as we should, we unintentionally created a friendly environment for mold growth especially with paper backed drywall. Also homes are built tighter and we are spoiled with central heat and AC so our homes are closed up more in the summer months as well. Also, I noticed that the old plaster walls withstood water and moisture a lot better than drywall does for growth.
Carrying on with finished basements: Have the water proofing system evaluated. Seal and finish walls. Inspect your basement windows. Inspect the foundation, make sure the walls are not bowed or cracked and look for signs of water or water damage. Install safety egress windows so your finished basement has another point of escape. Install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors. If you plan on living here when you are older or have use for it now consider a wider hallway, roll in shower, roll under sink and wider doorways. You can always get a chair lift for the stairway and hand rails at a later time.
Even though I love my job I would not want to come home to a flood in my own home. But since I know there are 43 different ways water can disrupt our homes I added in a nice feature to my basement. Since I know drywall soaks up water like a bounty paper towel, I did not install the drywall close to the floor. I kept it 3 to 4 inches off the ground. I used plywood as a furring strip to install a taller 6” base. I made sure the plywood does not touch the ground or the drywall and I chose real wood for my trim instead of MDF. With this system in place, I know I can dry up my lower level without the need to take off the baseboard and open up the wall cavity. I installed pipe wrap insulation on cold water pipes and installed access panels for all mechanicals since I drywalled the ceiling instead of an acoustical drop ceiling.
Make sure you have appropriate cold air returns installed for better air circulation and consider a high efficiency HVAC system that circulates the air continuously. This balances the temperatures throughout your home so the basement is not too cold in the winter and the cool air from the basement is mixed in with the heat upstairs in the summer time. When you have regular inspections for your HVAC system have them clean out the condensation pump. This will overflow when you run the AC if it clogs.
For rooms with a water source consider caulking the sill plate and the baseboard to the floor. If water leaks from these rooms it will not readily go under the walls into the next room. Consider installing a porcelain pedestal since instead of a vanity because all the wood except the face is usually particle board which needs to be replaced if it soaks in water. Or if you do install a vanity with sides or back that is constructed with the standard particle board then consider installing on a 2 x 4" platform. The platform is very easy to dry. Install steel plates in front of all plumbing including drainage pipes and be careful not to put a nail in one. If a nail goes into a pipe you may not notice until the nail corrodes to expose the hole. Hot water tanks get old and can rust at the bottom. Have the new hot water tank installed on blocks up off the moist cement floor and install a drip pan underneath with a hose leading to a drain in case the tank starts to leak. But put a water alarm sensor there too just in case you do not notice the leak before it gets worse or bursts.
Consider shelving that keeps storage items off the ground and or put items in plastic tubs with lids in case of water flowing from the main floor. And again, remember to turn off the water supply valve for your outside water spickets before the winter and in the summer months do not leave the water faucet turned on even if you are not using it because the hose could burst and the water will sometimes saturate the ground enough to cause the water to intrude into the basement. Remember, 8-10 gallons per minute.
I hope this article helps you protect your home. Again, even though I love my job, I empathize with every one of my clients when they have a water loss. I myself have had at least seven water catastrophes in our homes over the years and they were not fun. One was downright miserable. If you ever do have a water loss I will be there for you and your home 24/7 and will use my talents to the best of my ability to make the recovery go as smoothly and quickly as possible. “You deserve a job well done”
We welcome your ideas to help others prevent water from damaging their homes. You can write to me at healthyindoorenvironment@gmail.com and if you enjoyed this article please share our website with a friend. They can find this article on the “Good to know” page of www.healthyindoorenvironment.com
